One’s hair is a natural crown. The filaments act as antennae and ornament alike. Taking care of one’s hair is a necessary task that only grows the longer the strands become. If one’s aim is encouraging growth, the necessary methods are not as intuitive as one might expect. My somewhat-thin, moderately dense, Type 1 hair is presently 31” long, and after approximately six years of growth, care, and benign neglect, I can nearly sit on it. It is in excellent shape with minimal damage. While I cannot advise those with extremely curly or kinky hair, if you have straight or wavy hair, here are some of the methods of care I employ, that those wishing to grow out their hair might find useful:
Determine your hair type. There are four types of hair, ranging from straight to kinky, and each type has three subtypes. It’s easy enough to determine what type yours is.
Get a haircut that suits your hair type. Spend time on Instagram to find someone whose work you like, and ask them what they would advise for your face shape. Bring some pictures as “inspo.” If your intention is to grow your hair out, do not allow them to razor it.
Get a trim every eight to twelve weeks. This will keep the ends from splitting and ensure it keeps shape as you grow it. If your hair stylist says your ends are dead and need cut, listen to them.
Stop dying your hair. Unless you’re spending serious money, everyone can tell, and even then it’s obvious. Your hair only looks “nicer” after being dyed because the dye particles clog the follicle that was lifted and damaged during the dying and toning process. It damages your hair. Embrace your natural color.
Stop getting extensions. Again, if you’re not spending serious money, everyone can tell, and sometimes even then it’s obvious. Healthy, well-cut hair doesn’t need extensions; ditch them.
Find out whether your water is hard or soft, and select hair products accordingly. City water is very soft, whereas in other parts of the country (eg. California) water is extremely hard. Many products won’t lather properly in hard water, and if water is too soft your hair may feel greasy after showering. Determine your locale’s water quality and select products that perform best under those conditions. Do this before you travel as well.
Wash your hair 1-2x per week. Unless you’re sweating massively every day, washing hair more than 1-2x per week only strips it of oil. Wear it up and/or use dry shampoo between washes. Lather your shampoo in your hands before applying.
Leave your conditioner in for at least three minutes before washing it out. This allows it to penetrate the follicle.
In the winter, deep condition every other wash. A leave-in conditioner can be nice. Do this every third wash in the summer.
Oil your hair from roots to ends before washing it. This protects the follicle from the hot water and the shampoo, and makes it softer after cleansing.
Use a clarifying shampoo every third or fourth wash. This cleans away all of the product residue that builds up during and between washes.
After washing and conditioning, run cold water over hair for a minute. Heat (from your hot shower) opens the hair follicle, and cold closes it follicle.
“Bond builders” can help, to a point. Things like K18 and Living Proof are helpful, especially if hair is damaged or frayed. Use judiciously as overuse causes buildup that will weigh down your hair and make it look dull and flat.
Do not comb or brush wet hair. Wet hair is weak hair. Brush it before showering and wait until it’s dry to detangle.
Rinse your hair in clean water before going in the pool or the ocean. This creates a slight barrier that protects your hair from the chlorine or salt.
Stop using hair elastics. Silk scrunchies, clips, or hairpins only.
Learn to braid and style your hair. It’s easy, it protects the hair, it looks adorable. Tension on your scalp will pull your hair out. Google “traction alopecia.”
Never use heat to style. No hair dryers, no hot rollers, no irons or curlers. Learn to pin-curl, it’s easy. Get one of those heatless hair things. You don’t need heat.
Sleep with your hair in a braid. This will keep it out of your face (and prevent it from breaking you out) and protect it without discomfort or putting tension on your scalp. Plus, it adds a neat wave.
Get silk or satin pillowcases. Worth the price. Wash them every third day.
If you have curly hair, get a silk sleeping bonnet. You’ll look ridiculous at night but your curls won’t fall.
Use dry shampoo sparingly. Spray it on close to the roots just before you work out or sweat, or before you go to bed. Let sit for at least two minutes before brushing it out.
Scalp care is as important as hair care. Scalp oils and scalp shampoos can be helpful to clean the scalp and fortify the hair.
Get a good hairbrush. I like Mason Pearson. Clean it once a week.
Eat well: protein and fat. This is how you make more hair and keep the hair you do have healthy.
Biotin supplements are silly. Your body can only metabolize so much before you urinate the rest out.
Recall that some “fallout” is normal. Healthy hair naturally falls out at a certain rate. The longer your hair gets, the more hair it will seem like you are losing. Be real with yourself here. If you have patchiness or are losing giant clumps, consult a professional.
Ignore it. This is the easiest way to grow your hair. It will take years. Enjoy the journey. Resist the urge to get bangs.